Hirsch Vineyards Pinot Noir East Ridge Sonoma Coast 2016 750ml

David Hirsch planted his vineyard in 1980 on the remote ridgetops above the Pacific near Cazadero, well before the far Sonoma Coast was recognized for Pinot Noir, and the site is now a cornerstone of the Fort Ross-Seaview appellation. East Ridge is one of the estate's block-designated bottlings, highlighting a single section of this complex, fog-swept property. The 2016 is a study in finesse rather than power: small red berries, blood orange, white pepper and a chalky, mineral edge, all delivered with an understated, precise texture. Vinous singled it out as "incredibly distinctive" in the vintage. Lovely now, it should continue to drink well through about 2030.